BY SARAH ELLISONIn the five years she worked at a call center for SlimFast, Maria Viega became used to women calling in tears, desperate for advice on how to stop cheating on their diets.
"Their main complaint," Viega says, "is that they were hungry."
Now, the food industry has a novel solution: products that will make people feel full, even when they aren't.
Big food companies often are late-comers to diet fads, which tend to bubble up through popular books and personal recommendations. Food makers are, by their nature, predisposed to want people to eat more, as embodied by the classic Lay's potato-chip slogan: "Bet you can't eat just one!"
But given Americans' obsessions with their waistlines, diet foods are one of the faster growing areas of the otherwise slack food business.
As a result, companies from Nestle SA to Unilever and Kraft Foods are trying to get ahead of the game by creating their own food fad. They have experimented with special starches, new types of fiber and a process that occurs in the small intestine called the "ileal brake mechanism."
The goal: Create products that dieters will buy more of in order to eat less.
FULFILLING FOODSFood sales have been increasing about 2 percent a year, according to market-research firm ACNielsen. By contrast, sales relating to particular diet fads can be spectacular, if erratic.
In 2004, for example, com-panies sold $2.6 billion in low-carbohydrate products, almost eight times as much as they sold in 2002. Then, last year, sales fell 10 percent.
The concept of controlling one's appetite isn't new. Getting the science right and incorporating it into everyday products is a complicated process. Food makers call it "satiety," the science of what keeps people feeling satisfied or sated.
Early explorers of the idea were makers of caffeine supplements and pharmaceuticals, such as diet pills Dexatrim and the Fenfluramine-phentermine combination. Some of these products work by agitating the nervous system and diverting the body's attention from digesting food.
Since the late 1970s, dieters have torn through dozens of different weight-loss concepts, including the Pritikin and Scarsdale diets.
In the 1980s, they avoided salt and started jogging.
In the 1990s, dieters gravitated to low-fat regimes.
Then, in 1997, the reissue of the Dr. Atkins diet book, which originally was published in the 1970s, popularized a low-carbohydrate, high-protein diet that captivated dieters.
It also caused major problems for food-industry players who had poured resources into low-fat products. Many companies thought Atkins-style, low-carb dieting would be a fleeting phenomenon and were caught flat-footed when it became a multibillion-dollar opportunity.
"When we launched (Lean Cuisine), it was all about low calories, leg warmers and Jane Fonda," says Brett White, head of marketing for Nestle's Lean Cuisine. "Then, it was about low cholesterol and low fat — the cycles are happening faster and faster." Nestle is based in Vevey, Switzerland.
The low-carb diet changed dieters' approach to weight-loss. Notably, it suggested they could lose weight without having to feel hungry, because protein is metabolized slowly.
The popularity of the Atkins diet has waned recently, as some adherents found their cholesterol levels rising sharply. Still, consumers haven't forgotten its fundamental lesson and are reluctant to return to their hunger pangs.
The "glycemic index," currently a hot diet concept, is a natural successor to this idea. It ranks carbohydrates depending on how they raise the body's blood-sugar levels. A constant sugar level prevents big surges in insulin production and staves off the feeling of hunger. Normally, the body uses insulin to break down sugar.
Foods with a low glycemic index are digested more slowly. That is the concept the big food marketers are trying to mimic in their laboratories.
PUTTING ON THE BRAKESScientists at Unilever, based in London and Rotterdam, are betting on a technology four years in development that focuses on something called the "ileal brake mechanism."
The ileum is the lower part of the small intestine, an area that fat penetrates only when there is too much for the body to process. When it does, the ileum sends a message to the brain that the body is full.
Unilever found a way to alter the structure and the coating of fat molecules so they remain intact as they pass through the digestive system and trigger a sated response when they hit the ileum.
Terry Olson, general manager of marketing for SlimFast, says the technique can convince the body it has consumed 500 calories — the equivalent of a ham and cheese sandwich — when it really had consumed only 190, the amount contained in a SlimFast shake.
The low-carb fad cut SlimFast's $1 billion sales by more than a half in three years, and Unilever is hoping this discovery will help revive one of the industry's best-known and most-battered diet brands.
Unilever has put some of those special satiety-inducing fat molecules in SlimFast. The product now promises to keep dieters full for four hours, up from the 2½ hours of a regular SlimFast shake.
The new product, an upgraded version of Unilever's SlimFast Optima shakes, started arriving on store shelves in late January, one of the first of such products from a big food company.
Rival food makers are looking to exploit different hunger-related mechanisms. Danone SA, based in Paris, is selling nutrition bars called Lu, which use a special type of starch that is released slowly to keep the body's blood-sugar level constant.
Last year, Danone re-searchers also applied for patents on special types of fiber that slow the rate at which food travels through the digestive system. The fiber delays "gastric emptying," which is food's voyage from the stomach to the intestine, and encourages "gastric distention" or the stretching of the stomach. Combined, that makes people feel full longer. The tricky part is not to block their systems entirely.
Kraft Foods, Northfield, Ill., maker of Chips Ahoy cookies and Ritz crackers, is experimenting with a proprietary technology based around starches that are resistant to being broken down by the body.
Regular starch, a basic ingredient of baked goods, typically acts like sugar. This new kind behaves like fiber, which is digested slowly and keeps blood-sugar levels on an even keel. But it still performs the basic function of starch, such as keeping cookies from crumbling.
The starch is being produced now but won't show up in Kraft products for some time, says Todd Abraham, Kraft's vice president of global research and technology strategy.
WHOLE-BODY APPROACHLittle about the science employed by these food giants is simple.
Most weight-loss efforts fail because they work on only one hunger stimulant, says Richard Mattes, a food and nutrition professor at Purdue University.
He organized a symposium for Unilever, for which he consults, in West Palm Beach, Fla., featuring specialists who had each worked on a different satiety mechanism. There was an expert on the brain, one on the upper intestine, another on the lower intestine and another on the endocrine system.
Their goal was to look at "the multiple redundant mechanisms our body uses to make sure we get enough energy," he says. In plain language, that means even if a person's stomach is full, his eyes can look at chocolate cake and want to eat it.
At Lean Cuisine's testing centers, focus-group participants used to pass the time with their own magazines. After eating a Lean Cuisine meal, they were required to stay for several hours and tell the panel leaders how hungry they were every 30 minutes.
But even looking at a picture of tempting food, the testers discovered, could make people feel hungry again. Last year, Lean Cuisine banned testers from bringing their own magazines and instead gave them issues with the food ads taken out. They supplied videos to watch but chose ones that didn't have images of food.
"If the only way we judged hunger was how full the stomach is, no one would ever have dessert," says Mark Friedman, associate director at the Monell Chemical Senses Center in Philadelphia, a group funded by industry and the government that studies human perception.
Friedman is skeptical of the food companies' research, which he says won't be able to address the myriad body functions governing hunger.
FOOD AND DRUGS The move to put appetite suppressants in food could place big food makers in some awkward company. Fen phen, a combination of two diet drugs, ran into trouble when Fenfluramine — the "fen" half of the combination — was withdrawn from the market in 1997 after it was found to cause heart damage.
In 2004, Unilever bought the rights to market a Hoodia gordonii extract as a diet aid. Hoodia gordonii is a compound based on a bitter-tasting plant that grows only in southern Africa's Kalahari Desert. Legend has it that Kalahari bushmen chewed on the plant during long hunting trips to stave off hunger.
Herbal supplements don't have to be approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration for sale, but they do require FDA approval to make certain claims. Unilever is conducting clinical trials with its British partner to develop Hoodia gordonii products, which could hit shelves in 2008.
Perhaps the best-known representative of Hoodia gordonii in the U.S. is former Playboy model Anna Nicole Smith, who appears in ads promoting TrimSpa's Hoodia gordonii weight-loss products.
David Mela, the Unilever project leader for the new SlimFast technology, says his com-pany's formulation has nothing to do with weight-loss supplements found on most drugstore shelves.
"A lot of these products have blackened the reputation of the weight-control area," Mela says. "If there were a supplement out there that worked fantastically, there wouldn't be an obesity problem."
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